Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Tilbake i Whitehorse igjen

Trygt tilbake etter turen ned til Juneau. Vi har hatt det kjempefint og vi fikk mott broren til Julie. Vi saa flere bjorner naar vi ruslet rundt i fjellet og vi var kjempeheldige med vaeret. I dag fikk vi hike med to Canadiere tilbake til Whitehorse og dagen i dag gaar med til pakking foer avreise i morgen.

Vi gleder oss til aa komme hjem! :)

Sunday, August 15, 2010

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Friday, August 13, 2010

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Tuesday, August 10, 2010

On our way South

We`re enjoying the spectacular views along the Alaska Highway as we work our way down South to see Julies brother. It`s truly an amazing road trip.
 
On our way we`ll unload some of our gear in Whitehorse and pick it up on our way back (we fly home from Whitehorse). This way we don`t have to carry it all if we choose to walk the Chilkoot trail back into Canada.
 
Hope you`re all doing fine back home. We`re looking forward to seeing you all again!

--
Beste hilsen,
Jørgen Tuer Thorvaldsen

Sunday, August 8, 2010

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Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Denali, Kenai, og Chilkoot Pass/Sitka

Howdy,

Etter eit par dagar med uvant mykje hjernearbeid, og ca. nok timer paa pc til aa lage eit normalt gjennomsnitt for sommeren, saa har vi rett og slett kjoept oss ein gammal Subaru.
Fikk god pris, selger igjen foer vi drar, saa faar vi omtrent same pris igjen er det i grunn super deal.
Saa no er vi altsaa eigara av ein groenn Subaru. Groent er fint.

Den skal ta oss ned til Denali National Park i dag, og der skal vi boltre oss i tundra, taiga, fjell, haustfargar, og frisk luft igjen! DIGG!!

Saa blir det videre ned mot Anchorage for aa besoeke Don og Harald – to trivelige, gamle hippier som vi traff i Ft. Yukon. Dei har lokka oss effektivt med fiske, og padletur paa Kenai River(lakse&bamsegaranti, visstnok) – gleder oss!:)

Etter det kjoerer vi forhaapentligvis den gamle sliteren over til Skagway, og derfra blir det enten besoek hos brodern i Sitka og ymse greier der - flott natur -, eller vandring over Chilkoot Pass.
Mao – eit par fullpakka veker med GOEY:D

Saa farvel Fairbanks, pc-laben paa Universitetet har vaert snill med oss og vi takkar for det.

J&J&B
NB:
Maa bare illustrera igjen kor mange flotte menneske vi har vert saa heldige og treffa paa her borte:
Paa veg ned mot Fairbanks blei vi kjent med to Harley Davidson karer fra Kentucky – Ken og Alfred (Alfred ser prikk, prikkande lik ut paa han eine fyren i Gamle, Gretne Gubber – utrulig kul!), og dei er saa snille!
I gaar satt dei og venta i timesvis sammen med oss paa biler som skulle komma opp hit saa vi kunne kikka paa dei (Alfred er mekaniker og Ken er bilselger - jada, griseflaks:), og saa insisterte dei saerdeles heftig paa aa spandere middag paa oss etterpaa. Og er bare oppriktig glade for aa tilbringa litt tid i lag. Veldig roerande:)
Alfred (t.v) og Ken (og ikkje den nye bilen)
Aftenroed ein plass mellom Ft. Yukon og Dalton Highway
Lunsj i solo (OG steinkastekonkurranse paa blikkbokser: Svendsen 4, Thorvaldsen 0. "Jente kan ikkje kasta" du liksom:)
Stopp nedenfor Nation River, i Yukon-Charley National Preserve. Nydelig landskap aa padla gjennom.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

vipadlerganskesaalangt.com

Hei igjen!

Vi ankom Yukon Crossing/Dalton Highway bridge i forigaars kveld/natt, etter ca. ei veke paa elva etter Fort Yukon.

Har hatt det fantastisk paa elva men den siste etappen sementerte det vi i grunn begynte aa faa ein magefoelelse paa: for aa komme oss til havet maatte vi hatt havkajakker videre, evt. eit par veker lengre tid.
Vi var vaerfaste ein dag i Ft. Yukon pga. vind ("If you guys head out today, we'll be so worried back here we'll have to race after you in our boats and check on you" var beskjeden fraa dei lokale...hehe, soete folk!), og ytterligere to dager paa elva.
Eine dagen padla vi om natta daa det som regel stilner daa, men i og med at teltet blir usnorkbar sauna om dagen var ikkje det noko langvarig opplegg.
Har vist seg vanskelig - og tidvis litt skummelt, viktig aa ha baugen mot boelgene! - aa padle mot vinden naar elva er stor (gjennomsnittsstr. mellom elvebreddene fra Yukon Crossing og til havet er ca. 1,6 km, men kan bli opptil det dobbelte/triple paa visse steder) og minner mest om fjorden heime paa ein ruskedag.
Kombien av stroem nedover, og vind oppover, mekker ogsaa overraskande store boelger ift. vindstyrke.

Ergo - vi brukte ca. 5 veker paa litt over den foerste, snille halvdelen, og ville nok trengt i alle fall tilsvarande for aa komme oss til havet. Og vi har ca. 3 veker igjen...:)
Saa vi er usedvanlig realistiske, og bruker heller dei tre siste vekene paa aa sjaa litt meir av alt det fine mangfoldet Alaska har aa by paa.

Saa no har vi ein planleggingsdag i Fairbanks.
(Dette etter aa ha faatt haik med ein "tourbus", compliments of Alan - tidenes kulaste pensjonistbussjaafoer med eit uendelig repertoar av kneggehistoriar paa turen ned. Northern Alaska Tour Company anbefalast paa det varmaste!)
Vi vurderer ein rekke alternativ: Denali, Kenai, Sitka, Chilkoot Pass, osv…er ingen mangel paa naturjuvelar, men det avgjerande for aa faa kabalen til aa gaa opp er transportmiddel. Mykje villmark=lite infrastruktur, men det er vel i grunn ein grei pris og betale.

Ein faar saa annerledes tidsperspektiv her ute - 18 dager til virker vemodig lite!:)

Kort oppsummert fra elva: vi har hatt det som to bustete,myggspiste, mystisk luktande og solbrune(brente) plommer i egget.
Det er ein slags ro naar ein er midt ute i naturen over ein lengre periode som er vanskelig aa overfoere til papiret med ord - ein sum av lukter, lyder, fravaeret av lyder, synsinntrykk, og alle tankene som bare faar summe i fred oppe i hodet, og ikkje minst det at det er bare dette som er livet ditt - ingen avtaler, ingen forpliktelser, ingenting anna enn deg og verden rundt deg - som roerer ved ein vanligvis urban sjel. Ein faar ein lugnhet og eit perspektiv paa kva ting som virkelig har verdi her i livet, som ein forhaapentligvis klarer aa holde fast paa midt i mellom alt hastverket og trafikken som venter paa aa fylle hodet naar vi kjem tilbake.

(Eg leste ein liten snutt ein plass om korleis vi menneske blir desensitiverte for verden rundt oss som ein rein adaptasjon til det aa leve med saa mykje stoey, og det var i grunn eit artig poeng. Klart det, sjaa for deg ein hoeglydt flyplass fks. - med mobiltlf., barneskraal, traller, osvosb. - hjernen maa paa ein maate bli litt nummen for ikkje aa bli aldeles overfylt.
Mao - viktig aa hoeyre paa foglesangen;))

Vi har ogsaa moett saa mange fine mennesker baade der vi har stoppa, og paa elva. Og det vi leste om at indianerne i smaalandsbyene langs ved elva var noken alkoholiserte skurker var bare godt gammaldags sludder og poelsevev!
Det er bare aa smile og vaere imoetekommande sjoelv, saa er dei noken av dei mest rause og blide folkene eg har truffe paa, sjoelv om det unektelig er ein rimelig fri flyt av alkohol rundtomkring. Eg skjoenner godt at dei blei lurt trill rundt av kvitemann whisky som kom nedover elva foer oss...:)

Saa det var med ein liten klump i halsen at vi pakka sammen kanoen og satte snuta soerover - vi har allerede lagt planer om aa fullfoere distansen ein gang vi har meir tid, og tidligere paa aaret (August er visst kjent for daarlig vaer nedover elva blant dei lokale. Naar det blaaste saa faelt i Ft. Yukon saa kommenterte Snook - ein utrulig artig kar som lot oss campe paa eiendommen hans - at det var ein blaasete periode no. "Oh yeah", svarte eg,"how long do you reccon it will last?" "Usually 'till about October" var svaret).
So long Great River, seier vi derfor, we'll be back!

Men naar alt det er sagt, saa gleder vi oss veldig til resten av turen, til aa faa tatt fleire fine bilder til Bergans, og til aa komme tilbake til alle vi er glad i heime. Vi har kost oss i kverandre sitt selskap, men det blir gildt aa klemme paa andre kjente og kjaere kropper ogsaa!

Mange helsingar fraa oss som har padla ganske saa langt:)

NB: Skal laste opp nokre bilder om vi faar tid i morgon!

Saturday, July 31, 2010

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Friday, July 30, 2010

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Thursday, July 29, 2010

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Tuesday, July 27, 2010

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Monday, July 26, 2010

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Sunday, July 25, 2010

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Saturday, July 24, 2010

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Wednesday, July 21, 2010

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Tuesday, July 20, 2010

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Sunday, July 18, 2010

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Saturday, July 17, 2010

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Thursday, July 15, 2010

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Raising the safety factor for millions who step into the outdoors each year, SPOT notifies friends and family or an international emergency rescue coordination center with status messages based on situation and need. Ask for Help (or SPOT Assist), Alert S.O.S., Check-In/OK and Track Progress-all with the simple push of a button.
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Tuesday, July 13, 2010

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Monday, July 12, 2010

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Sunday, July 11, 2010

VM finale i Dawson

Vi hadde en flott fjelltur i gaar sammen med et Canadisk par som var paa roadtrip. Fikk en fantastisk utsikt over et fjellomraade som kalles Tombstone. Vi har ventet i Dawson til i dag, og er naa rimelig klar for aa dra. Det gjenstaar en ting og det er VM-finalen. Vi blir en god gjeng som samles paa en lokal pub her, og det blir spennende aa se hvem som stikker av med seieren.

Kos dere med kamp der hjemme! :)

Friday, July 9, 2010

Dawson City - gullgravernes hovedstad



Daa har vi komt til Dawson City! Dei siste dagene paa elva har vaert fantastiske, med masse sol og nydelig landskap. For dei som har sett "White Fang" - Ulvehunden, saa er eg ganske sikker paa at vi har seilt gjennom akkurat det samme landskapet som dei gjer paa veg til Dawson. Nydelige panoramabilde, med ein aukande foelelse av det aa virkelig vera ute i villmarka.

Heldige har vi vert paa dyrefronten ogsaa - vi har endelig sett bamse! Saag ein liten bjoerneunge, type svartbjoern, i ein skraaning ca. 40 meter unna mens vi floeyt stille og langsomt forbi. Bamsemor var ingen sted aa sjaa, snodig i grunn, men var alikevel greitt og ha eit stykke djup elv mellom oss:) Ellers har vi sett masse elg, og ikkje minst elgspor, og bever. Brakarn e meget begeistra for sistnevnte, tippe han ser ein mulighet for litt krydder i ein ellers ganske monoton toerrfordiett.

Dagsetappane i det siste har ligget paa ca. 8 mil om dagen, med historiske 17 mil i gaar/forigaars. Det var rett og slett saa nydelig ute, og saa fristande aa padle heile vegen til Dawson og ha litt meir tid her, at vi padla oss gjennom natto. Veldig fin opplevelse - maa jo nesten gjoerast ogsaa naar ein er i midnattssol-land:)

Saa no er vi altsaa i Dawson, gode gamle gull-rush hovedstaden i Nord-Amerika. Er mykje historie her, baade om overveldande rikdom og nederlag. For kver person som virkelig "struck it big" var det ein horde med folk som mista alt dei hadde i gullfeberen. Mange soekte soerover igjen saa snart dei hadde gullet i lomma (eller fravaeret av saadan), men mange blei igjen, gripne av stemniga her oppe. Og ein kan godt forstaa begge i grunn - det er eit hardt land med vintertemperaturer lett ned mot minus 50 celcius, men samtidig eit vakkert og fritt eit.

Uansett - historie kunne ein skrivd nok ei bok om, men det holder vel aa sei at det er masse knask aa laere om her:)

Vi har altsaa vaert her siden i gaar tidlig, i dag skal vi kose oss, fikse litt praktisk, drikke oel og bomme paa dartskiva, og i morgon gaar turen til Tombstone Mountains! Flott fjellomraade ca. 100 km herifra, som det i utgangspunktet ville vaert vanskelig for oss aa komme oss til, men vi traff eit kanadisk ektepar som var saa hyggelige aa invitera oss med. Den slags seier ein ikkje nei takk til, saa daa blir det ein dag til i gullgravarland. Gleder oss, og haaper aa faa tatt noken fine fjellbilder!

Etter dette blir det avgaarde igjen - neste stopp Eagle, Alaska. Ca. ei veke dit, kanskje litt meir, vi faar sjaa.

Ha det fint saa lenge:)

NB: Joergen fikk hendene i litt nikotin i form av skoal (snusaktig greie) i Carmacks, og etter det har han vert ein jodlande fornoeyelse og ha i kanoen. Vi liker skoal.


Livet paa elva

Livet på elva

Tenkte å skrive litt om rutinene vi har. Livet blir mye rutine og det kan kanskje vaere litt interessant åhore hvordan vi gjoer ting.

Vi staar opp rundt klokken ni hvaer dag, og er på elva rundt klokken elleve. Da er det varmt og fint i lufta. Vi spiser frokost foer dette, det har blitt mye "outmeal" altså en form for havregrot, men vi handler broed og pålegg når vi har mulighet til dette. Vi padler i omtrent fire timer foer vi tar lunch. Den har stort sett bestått av nudler, med noe variasjon inni mellom. Vi holder lunsjen under en time, og proever å rusle rundt en del og få brukt beina godt når vi er i land. Etter lunsj padler vi i fire timer til foer vi slår opp leir og lager middag. Dette måltidet har vi variert mye på, men det blir hermetikk eller frysetoerket mat. Det går greit å ha en litt kjip lunsj og frokost så lenge det er litt troekk i middagen.

Yukon river er veldig gjoermete og skitten, så vi henter vann i sideelver. Alt vann vi bruker er vi noedt til å filtrere eller koke da vi ikke vil ligge med beaver feaver.

Vi har sovet alle nettene i telt, og ryggen begynner å bli vant med det harde underlaget. Det skal sies at senga hjemme savnes!

Alt vi gjoer må gjores med baktanke om at det kan vaere bjorn i naerheten. Alt som lukter må skje 60 meter fra teltet der vi sover. Vi nyter ikke så mye som en rosin i teltet. Alt som lukter oppbevares også et stykke unna. Litt kjedelige å drasse rundt på ting i alle retninger men det er rutinene som redder deg. Vi er armert med slugs og bearspray (pepperspray på storrelse med en halvlitersflaske).

Ellers er vi i seng rundt elleve hver dag. Etter dette går sola ned og vi minnes raskt på hvor langt nord vi er. Nattetemperaturen er lav her selv om vi har hatt mange varme soldager.

Vi skravler om alt mellom himmelog jord og loeser de fleste verdensproblemer på ferden. Vi treffer folk på elva inni mellom og det hender vi deler leirplass med andre.

Dette ble i hvert fall et raskt innblikk i hvordan ting er! :)

Thursday, July 8, 2010

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Jorgens SPOT
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GPS location Date/Time:07/08/2010 08:23:45 AKDT

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Raising the safety factor for millions who step into the outdoors each year, SPOT notifies friends and family or an international emergency rescue coordination center with status messages based on situation and need. Ask for Help (or SPOT Assist), Alert S.O.S., Check-In/OK and Track Progress-all with the simple push of a button.
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Wednesday, July 7, 2010

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Tuesday, July 6, 2010

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Raising the safety factor for millions who step into the outdoors each year, SPOT notifies friends and family or an international emergency rescue coordination center with status messages based on situation and need. Ask for Help (or SPOT Assist), Alert S.O.S., Check-In/OK and Track Progress-all with the simple push of a button.
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Monday, July 5, 2010

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Sunday, July 4, 2010

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Saturday, July 3, 2010

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Friday, July 2, 2010

Carmacks

Kvikk oppdatering her - vi har komt vel fram til Carmacks!:)
Har tilbakelagt ca. 34 mil av Yukonelva, med masse fine naturopplevelser! 30 mile river, en seksjon nedenfor Lake Laberge, maa vera noke av det finaste ein kan oppleva i solskinnet. Saag til og med mammaelg med to kalver 60 meter fra kanoen, stod bare og kikka paa oss som ein liten kuriositet som flaut forbi. Fint!

Lake Laberge var ogsaa eit vakkert stykke vatn, men litt drygt. Den eine dagen noeyt vi foerst 8,5 km/t medvindsfart, foer vi rett og slett maatte legga inn aarene for dagen. Sitat kartboko vaar: " When the waves break white in the middle of the lake - GET OFF THE WATER.". Vi stod dermed paa land som to gode krabber gjer det og kunne bare kikka paa ein tysker-katamarandings av to kanoer knytt sammen, med eit STORT seil framme som suste forbi. Men vi tilga dei den frekke farten og toeffheten naar de steikte svaer "pikefish" til oss kvelden etterpaa:)

Ellers - kroppene funker bra, og utstyret er aldeles ypperlig. Har begynt aa utvikla oppriktig sentimental kjaerlighet for teltet vaart - alt e saa lurt paa det! Har blant anna 3 doe
rer med myggnetting, akkurat som aa sove ute:) Og hoegt under taket = ingen bamseklausmareritt. Veldig bra. Kanoen har ogsaa oppfoert seg aldeles eksemplarisk - tar mykje utstyr, gaar fort paa fram, og synker ikkje. Finfint:)

Brakarn koser seg som elvebisk - ligger og dorsker paa elva, og er paa oppdagelsesferd paa ny plass kver kveld. Holder seg naerme oss heile tiden, veldig lettvint daa vi slipper aa tenke paa aa binde han fast. Men noken god bjoernevakt er han nok ikkje - han ligger stort sett paa rygg med alle fire poter oppe i lufta og snorker seg gjennom natta.

Neste maal er Dawson! Tipper det blir 5 dager herifra (altsaa 13 totalt fra vi la ut), men det er litt vaeravhengig. Var utrulig heldige med vaeret dei foerste fem dagen
e (minus vind), men dei tre siste har vi hatt ein del torden. Torden + kano paa elv er ingen super kombi har vi faatt med oss, saa det korter ned dagene noko. Uansett - vi koser oss og nyter turen, haaper daake har det fint heime ogsaa!:)

Klem fra oss





Julie har tatt eit nytt padlenavn for turen - "Lille Hia(!)watha"

Brakarn digge teltlivet


Gladlaks paa tur

Thursday, July 1, 2010

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Wednesday, June 30, 2010

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Tuesday, June 29, 2010

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Monday, June 28, 2010

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Sunday, June 27, 2010

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Saturday, June 26, 2010

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Message:We`re all good! :)
See our position on the google map.

Raising the safety factor for millions who step into the outdoors each year, SPOT notifies friends and family or an international emergency rescue coordination center with status messages based on situation and need. Ask for Help (or SPOT Assist), Alert S.O.S., Check-In/OK and Track Progress-all with the simple push of a button.
http://www.findmespot.com

Looking for a great way to share SPOT tracks and waypoints, stories and photos? Head to http://www.spotadventures.com and see how users are creating their adventures and sharing them!

Friday, June 25, 2010

Da legger vi ut paa elva!

I dag legger vi endelig ut paa elva. I gaar hadde vi tidenes shoppingdag, og har naa proviant for ca tre uker med oss. Neste handlestopp vil bli i Dawson city.
 
Posisjonen vaar vil bli oppdatert en gang for dagen paa folgende adresse: http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0OEf4gqqrMm9oyOHxgozjyjFWg4VQqZRd
 
Her kommer det opp et kart som viser hvor vi er. Det er en litt rotete losning akkurat naa, men skal forbedre den ved neste stopp der vi har internett. Som tidligere nevnt har vi ikke telefontilgang, saa det vil ikke bli saa mye blogging de forste ukene. Dette kan forandre seg naar vi kommer til Alaska! :)

--
Beste hilsen,
Jørgen Tuer Thorvaldsen

Check-in/OK message from Jorgens SPOT SPOT Messenger

Jorgens SPOT
Latitude:60.77293
Longitude:-135.11688
GPS location Date/Time:06/25/2010 09:36:21 AKDT

Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=60.77293,-135.11688&ll=60.77293,-135.11688&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Message:We`re all good! :)
See our position on the google map.

Raising the safety factor for millions who step into the outdoors each year, SPOT notifies friends and family or an international emergency rescue coordination center with status messages based on situation and need. Ask for Help (or SPOT Assist), Alert S.O.S., Check-In/OK and Track Progress-all with the simple push of a button.
http://www.findmespot.com

Looking for a great way to share SPOT tracks and waypoints, stories and photos? Head to http://www.spotadventures.com and see how users are creating their adventures and sharing them!

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Hello Whitehorse!:)

Hei dere!:)

Etter en noe strabasioes tur med en del komplikasjoner har vi endelig ankommet Whitehorse og hatt litt av den gode gamle flaksen igjen.
Alle hotell var fullbooket, saa eieren av Air North (og pilot), og den snille konen hans adopterte oss like greitt paa flyplassen og ga oss husrom, yukon-oel og hyggelig selskap.
Har det flott her, kan til og med klatre paa taket, skal ned i byen og handle naa.

Avgang enten i dag eller i morgen.

Brakar klarte seg nydelig paa flyet, flott bisk!

Glad i dere,

Klem fra oss alle mann

NB: Telefonene vaare funker ikke her. Neste post blir sannsynligvis i Dawson City, ca. 10 dager til om elva vil.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Kanoen er prøvepadlet!

Vi sjøsatte den nye skuta i dag oppe ved Lutvann i Oslo. Burde vel egentlig ha døpt den med å knekke en flaske champagne mot skroget, men siden skroget er laget av PVC, samt at vi ikke hadde champagne eller hadde tenkt på navn ble det en rask sjøsetting.

Vel, rask og rask... Vi brukte 1 time og 20 minutter på å sette sammen byggverket, noe som ikke er så dårlig med tanke på at det var første gang, og vi hadde glemt bruksanvisningen.


Brakar var noe usikker på dette vuggende underlaget, men han slo seg til ro etterhvert, kun avbrutt av noen små perioder der han vurderte sine muligheter for en smooth escape. Jeg må si at Allykanoen er en genial oppfinnelse, og jeg er sterkt imponert over egenskapene på vannet, samt de gode løsningene for sammensetning og nedpakking.

Nå blir neste gang vi setter den sammen i Canada.

--
Hilsen Julie og Jørgen

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Et svært hyggelig møte med Bergans

I dag besøkte vi Bergans ute i Hokksund. Rune (vår kontaktperson) uttrykte "La oss ta det morsomste først!" og bad med så rygge bilen bort til en stor garasjeport. For en mann med over gjennomsnitts interesse for turutstyr var det som å se rett inn i himmelriket da garasjeporten åpnet seg. I tillegg til Allykanoen med ekstrautstyr (bilde kommer) fikk vi full bekledning, et splitter nytt telt kalt en "viglo", samt to store og robuste tursekker.

Bergans har virkelig levert over all forventning, og vi gleder oss som unger til å prøvepadle skuta i morgen.

Tusen takk Bergans, for at dere valgte å gå så helhjertet inn i prosjektet vårt!

--
Beste hilsen,
Jørgen Tuer Thorvaldsen

Friday, June 11, 2010

Nå er det åtte dager igjen til avreise

Fikk svar på våpensøknaden i går, så nå skal alt være i orden. Greit å ha med hagla, selv om jeg nylig leste at i Nord-Amerika blir det bare drept 1 person av bjørn for hvert tredje år. Visstnok blir flere tatt av elg. Hagla kommer godt med uansett da jeg også har fått jakttillatelse. Blir greit å variere kostholdet noe gjennom turen.

Vi har også avtalt et møte med Bergans i neste uke for å diskutere samarbeidet. Utrolig bra at de ville sponse oss med utstyr. Takk Bergans! Vi satser på å få tatt en padletur i neste uke for å kontrollere at kanoen holder oss oppe og vannet nede. Blir spennende å se hvordan Brakar liker seg i kano også. Han har vært i båt før så det går nok fint.

--
Beste hilsen,
Jørgen Tuer Thorvaldsen